Rotor Mods:

Bead Mod
Author: Mario I. Arguell
Author Email: Mario I. Arguell at RCGroups
Specs: Rotor Shaft Stabilization
Material Required: Small Craft Bead
Downloads available:
Notes:

CF Shaft Needle Mod
Author: LetsFly
Author Email: LetsFly at RCGroups
Specs: Method of Securing Rotor to Carbon Fiber Shaft
Material Required: Pin
Downloads available:
Notes: One way to assembly the mainblade to a CF (Carbon Fiber) shaft is to drill a litle hole in the shaft in line with the original hole in the head shaft. I use a cutoff needle as a drill (0,6mm). Then I use a piece of the same needle as a pin in the hole to secure the main blade to the shaft. No glue, wery easy to pull apart. The CF shaft looks werry weak with the hole. But I have no problems with the shaft breaking even though I crash a lot.

Site Note: You may want to blut the edges of the pin piece you put into the hole, and also apply a small amount of glue (UHU POR type) to secure it as a safety precaution.


Carbon Fiber Rotor Shaft Mod
Author: watersharer
Author Email: watersharer at RCGroups
Specs: Rotor Shaft Replacement
Material Required: 1mm Carbon Fiber (CF) Rod
Downloads available:
Notes: The replacment rotor shaft lightens the PiccoZ and adds stability.

Carbon fiber/Bearing Rotor Shaft Mod
Author: dcurtis
Author Email: dcurtis at RCGroups
Specs: Carbon Fiber Rotor Shaft and Bearing Mod
Material Required: 1mm CF Rod, 3 x 1 mm bearings (2)
Downloads available:
Notes: This is an updated version of the Carbon Fiber Rotor Shaft/Bearing Mod based on the one that Nitrocharged did. Douglas has nicely layed out this document, along with clear pictures, and an interesting way to remove the rotor from the steel shaft. Check this one out, alone with his blog site.

Hinge Axis Mod
Author: alexander
Author Email: alexander at RCGroups, Creator of the PiccoZ
Specs: Adds flight Stabilization
Material Required: None
Downloads available:
Notes: For a perfect PiccoZ, play around the hinge axis on the main rotor should be zero, while being absolutely free to move around that same hinge. Easy to understand that this is nearly impossible to accomplisch in mass production. So most PiccoZ come with somewhat too much play to avoid that there is the slightest friction given variances in plastic shrinkage and assembly tolerances. For those who want to get the best results, there is a simple way of reducing the hinge play, although if done the wrong way, it will make it fly worse.

So, on your own risk (no warranty), you could try the following.
First measure play by moving one blade tip up and down without bending.
Take a metal rod of about 2mm diameter (not critical) and sharpen it to a tip like a pencil. Avoid to make it needle sharp or it will make holes in the plastic (that is not the purpose, see further) . You can use the tip of a small phillips screwdriver too. Locate on top side of the rotor, about 3-4 mm each side of the central hole along the hinge axis. Beneath that are hidden the molded plastic hinge pins. Put one finger on the underside of the rotor for support, and CAREFULLY but FIRMLY press with the pin on the top side (right above the hinge pin) to make a small dent in the plastic. Do the same the other side. These dents actually reduce the gap between the plastic of the rotor and the hinge pin, reducing play. Do this in small steps, and check each time if play has been reduced, and if more could be done. It's better to stop too early rather than too late. In the latter case, there will be friction and that is a really not what we want. There may be a way back, but I never had to try I have done it a couple of times and it's actually not too difficult for a careful and delicate modeller's hand. It's best when play is 'just a little bit'.

Try it in case your PiccoZ does not has this 'solid' feel and you will be amazed.

Once that done, you can check if blade tips (with stabilizer rotor at 90degrees to the vertical rotor axis) are at 90 degrees to that axis too. If not bent one end till it does.

Last, check if incidence of one blade side equals that of the other side. If not, adjust one side at the root end by pressure (NOT at the tip)

Some small strips of tape on one end or the other can further help to smoothen out things.

I emphasise that this is at your own risk (if you screw it up), or satisfaction (if you succeed)

Paper Clip Mod
Author: jas Qfix
Author Email: jas Qfix at RCGroups
Specs: Rotor Shaft Stabilization
Material Required: Paper Clip
Downloads available:
Notes: Many mods tries to support the main rotor shaft weak bearing that caused instability in flight, wobbling flights and waste of precious battery power that shows up as loss or reduced flight time. Ball bearings that size are not cheap and hard to find. You still need something to mount the BB to the main frame.

My solution mounts the bearing support to the main frame and not to the flexing EPP Pz's body. This bearing support is not perfect but it works just as good as the BB. This "Paper Clip mod" uses no ball bearing, no soldering and no glue. I only use two pieces of material a small paper clip and a small amount of 36 gauge insulated copper wire. You can always use better materials but these are stuffs you can get everywhere.

Here goes:
We will tried to build a tiny but strong bridge across main rotor gear using the wire of the paper clip as the support material. Prepare a paper clip by flatterned it. Use a nose plier to bend the wire to look like the one in the picture. A U-shape structure with an "L" shape front end and another tiny U-shape clamp at the tail end. The tail end is meant to clip the sqaure 2mm tailboom and the front end should be a tight fit 1mm space in between the main motor and the main plastic frame. Make sure the wire bridge touch the main rotor as it spans across the main gear. Make sure the paper clip wire touches nothing.

Take a motor copper wire about 36 gauge and 4" long. Again not so critical but this seems to work good enough for me. Use the tiny copper wire to loop and tie the main rotor shaft and the paper clip wire together. Make a knot or twist the two end of the wire together. Just make sure the copper wire is just tight enough but not too tight.
If everything looks right and feels right. Make a final test of your beautiful creation, and you are done.
Now my flights are very steady, quiet and more under control. Pz now act like the alien monster in the "Alien" movie with a mean and pointed attitude.

PicooZ Tail Rotor Mod
Author: Electronick
Author Email: Electronick at RCGroups
Specs: Unknown
Material Required: Aero Soar Gearbox
Downloads available:
Notes: Electronick put his Airhog Aerosoar Gear box to good use to improve his Z's controlablity. Here is what he has to say about it:

"To allow more control authority, crisper and smoother left/right turns and natural forward flight, one can use an Aerosoarer main motor gear box and prop with stock Picooz tail motor (don't lose the small gear in the AS main motor because you need to pop this onto the stock tail motor.) and hot glue n' solder this to the tail. It is very very important to position this new tail motor at a certain angle, about 10 degrees downwards and 10 degrees backwards, to ensure correct flight trim. Once the optimum angle is found one can now enjoy a a new Picooz that has more precision in left/right turns. The larger prop counteracts the torque too much so its important to find this correct position. Also, this allows more forward flight tendencies. I clipped the entire stock tail motor plastic housing off and pulled enough wire through to solder. If you try this mod you won't regret it when you see how much more brilliant the flight control becomes."

Pin Mod
Author: Airlark64
Author Email: Airlark64 at RCGroups
Specs: Rotor Shaft Stabilization
Material Required: (2) small pins
Downloads available:
Notes: I've made a bearing with two pins : one in front of the rotor shaft and the other behind. The contact (against the shaft) must be as light as possible. Put a small of oil and gooooooooooo !

Plates Mod
Author: lezard
Author Email: lezard at RCGroups
Specs: Rotor Shaft Stabilization
Material Required: Spacer Material
Downloads available:
Notes: Raphaël has provided a nice alternative to the bead or bearing mod. Thanks Raphaël!

Plates Mod #2
Author: klausbub
Author Email: klausbub at RCGroups
Specs: Rotor Shaft Stabilization
Material Required: Spacer or plastic material
Downloads available:
Notes: Some hints when attaching the one-piece bearing:
First attach the double side sticktape tight on the plastic plate.Then shift it on the rod, but do not press it on the heli body yet, just let it loose on the shaft. Then switch the heli on, to highest throttle setting. (you will need the help of another person to keep the throttlestick high if you dont have removed the throttle spring) let the rotor spin, and then try to adjust the plastic plate while the rotor is running. do this from the side, for example with a ruler (you dont want your fingers in the blades I guess :-). When adjusted this position switch the heli of and then press it firmly down to stick properly.

The reason for this procedure is that when you stick the bearing while the rotor is not running you will likely get it to close, so that the gears will run with too much friction. At full throttle there is most play between gears, so this is the best position to fix the bearing plate. it will then support the shaft without causing to much additional friction...
This all sounds pretty complicated but in fact it is easy, just try and you will also hear whats going on. if it sounds not good, re-position your bearing plate. we are talking of 1/10 mm which make quite a difference.
The bearing plate is not the wondersolution to get rid of the vibrations in low throttle settings, but it will make it a bit less worse and for sure protects the original bearings from being stressed to much, especially when crashing into something...

Another thing is for those who removed the tail boom paper:
I tried to make a new one from paper. that was to heavy and not good looking after some flights (crashes). Then I made it of clear scotch tape, but i did not like the look. After that I found that the plastic film used in a label printer ("dymo" in germany) is perfect; sticks well and is very thin and lightweight and looks good.

Replacement Bearing Tube Mod
Author: yumscrunt
Author Email: yumscrunt at RCGroups
Specs: Frame Replacement for Bearing Mod failure
Material Required: Retractable Ball Point Pen
Downloads available:
Notes: I had to rebuild my Bearing tube that I ruined by drilling a hole too big. No drilling required for my mod, parts are from a pen. I included a pic of the pen. It is the top part of the pen where you push down on. The ink tube is 3mm so I put it inside the bigger tube from the top part of the pen. Then I used a soldering iron to melt the two together. Just put the tip of the soldering iron on the middle of the tube . It will melt through the outside tube and into the inner tube. You don't want to go too far.

Rotor Balancing
Author: WaterDog
Author Email: WaterDog at RCGroups
Specs: Rotor Stabilization
Material Required: Pliers, 1mm CF Rod, sand paper
Downloads available:
Notes: After much frustration with the heavy oscillations at certain rpm's, I decided to see if I could balance the blades, flybar, hub, etc. without any fancy equipment. I was enjoying the CF shaft mod but needed to stop the crazy gyrations. Managed to do it with this little method, and lo and behold, smooth as butta! All vibrations and crazy oscillations gone and flys light, quiet, and very, very, smooth. Here is how you do it.......

Rotor Extension
Author: beer-man
Author Email: beer-man at RCGroups
Specs: Rotor lift assist
Material Required: Clear Tape
Downloads available:
Notes: Here's my mod on my rotor extentions, I made it about 1/4" longer at each end with scotch tape. Gives more lift so that on a full charge I don't have to run much stick. With stock I was either in the ceiling or falling. The other think it does is they are the first thing to bump something. Try at your own risk,because I have more motor problems,already replaced tail motor with a motorola phone vibrator. Now the main has a flat spot.

Rotor Removal
Author: MegaTesla
Author Email: MegaTesla at RCGroups
Specs: Rotor Removal Method
Material Required: Pliers
Downloads available:
Notes: Use pair of long nose pliers to grip the shaft. Put two fingers close to the shaft beneath the main rotor. Pull firmly in a straight line - you do not want to bend the shaft.

Rotor Stability Mod
Author: LLFly
Author Email: LLFly at RCGroups
Specs: Mod helps with wagging
Material Required: None
Downloads available:
Notes: I´ve got two picco´s and one of them flys badly. It wagges around and is almost uncontrollable. Been reading a lot of post´s here about different tweaks and tried most of them about stabilising the rotor and flybar. After some thinking I´ve found out that the linkage between the flybar and the rotor is not so accurate. If you hold the flybar firmly, it allows the rotor to flip some mm, and that is, in my thinking, the obvious reason to the picco´s behavior.
So, with a needle plier, I twisted the pins for the linkage on the rotor (see pict.) -just carefully and a bit downwards- to make them harder coupled, and imagine what?
My picco is like a new machine!
It flies steady and I can steer it wherever I want it to go!

Shaft Bearing Mod
Author: Nitrocharged
Author Email: Nitrocharged at RCGroups
Specs: Rotor Shaft and Bearing Replacement
Material Required: 1mm CF Rod, 3 x 1 mm bearings (2)
Downloads available:
Notes: This mod by Nitrocharged increases the flight time of your PiccoZ by reducing the friction and weight on your PiccoZ.

Stability Mod
Author: Martyn McKinney
Author Email: Martyn McKinney at RCGroups
Specs: Rotor Stabilization
Material Required: Thin Soldier
Downloads available:
Notes: I found that I could significantly increase the stability of my Picco (Picoo) making it easier to fly, by wrapping fine solder around the stabilizer blades. Make sure that you use equal lengths at the same distance or the heli will shake. What a difference! Now the heli holds its heading and is much easier to fly. The extra area of the vertical stabilizer on the tail significantly dampens the yaw. I thought I would pass this information on so that others might expand on it.

Super Strength Tail Rotor Mod
Author: pezhead
Author Email: pezhead at RCGroups
Specs: None
Material Required: Epoxy
Downloads available:
Notes: I saw so many people breaking their Tail Rotor. Here is the fix I did on my Son's PicooZ. He broke both his tail rotors on the first day and was pretty bummed. I managed to catch the second one before the wing came completely torn off.

I just took some 5 minue epoxy and strengthened the area where the wing attaches to the shaft. That's the weakest point. et voila! a super strength tail rotor. I let the epoxy sit for a good 10-12 hours because that's where it reaches max strength (5 minutes to set).

Son's heli has been flying fine now for days with this. I'd have to imagine it is at least 4-5 x as strong as the original.

Tail Rotor Resoldier Method
Author: Fly Or Die
Author Email: Fly Or Die at RCGroups
Specs: Method of resoldiering wires to tail rotor
Material Required: Wire
Downloads available:
Notes: Here is how you rewire the tail rotor. Its really quite easy but requires a soldering iron and attention to detail, as well as patience, to aviod cross soldering. Good luck.